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Lazio

Rome

Three thousand years in twenty square kilometres, and a right way to visit it if you are sleeping at a campsite.

Rome is not visited in a day and it is not worth trying. The historic centre is the size of a medium town and is walked, but the distances between one monument and the next are real: from the Colosseum to St Peter's is four kilometres.

Camping has one advantage and one drawback. The advantage is cost: a pitch in the ring costs a fraction of a hotel in the centre. The drawback is the travelling time, which has to be counted into every day.

How to get into the city

By public transport, always. Many campsites run a shuttle to the metro or to a station; others are near a regional train stop. Coming in by car means an hour spent looking for parking and paying dearly for it, and with a motorhome it means not coming in at all: the restricted traffic zone in the centre is active for most of the day.

How to divide it

Three days, three areas. The first for the ancient city: Colosseum, Forums, Palatine, then the Capitol. The second for the Vatican: St Peter's and the Museums, which take a whole morning between them and are best booked. The third for the baroque centre: Pantheon, Navona, Trevi, Spagna, all of it on foot and without tickets.

The rest comes after: Trastevere in the evening, the Appian Way on a Sunday, the Aventine for the view, Testaccio for dinner. And in July and August you go out early and come back in the afternoon: the heat in the centre, among all that stone, is not a detail.